Haggis is revered and reviled in equal measure. I love the stuff, but I know plenty of people who can’t stand it. It is made from sheep offal–predominantly lung, but can also include heart and kidneys–as well as suet, oats, onion, and a good helping of spices. It’s then encased in a sheep stomach (though now it’s mostly artificial lining). It’s easy to see why it might not be for everyone, but I once heard someone say “if you’ve eaten a hotdog, you’ve eaten worse” and they’re not wrong. When cooked, haggis has a rich smell; a moist, crumbly texture; and a peppery, gamey taste that is incredibly moreish.
While haggis is eaten year-round in Scotland, it is also commonly associated with Burns Night. Celebrated on the 25th of January every year, it's a night to celebrate the life and work of the Scottish poet Robert “Rabbie” Burns. Burns loved haggis so much he put quill to paper and the result would become one of his most famous poems, “Address to a Haggis.” It was recited at the first celebration of Burns, 5 years after his death in 1796, and has been the focal point of the night ever since.
Burns Night celebrations range from formal banquets to casual gatherings with friends or family. A good dram, traditional music with a bit of dancing, and of course, haggis, are all essential. When it's time for dinner, the haggis will be brought to the table and presented as bagpipes play to the room. As the host recites the poem, they will cut open the haggis and release the piping hot contents, to the excitement of the table. The more theatrical the better!
The haggis is traditionally served simply with neeps (swede, a Swedish turnip) and tatties (potatoes). I like a good helping of butter, double cream, and seasoning for my veg, and a good whisky sauce to serve on the side. The meal is then finished with Cranachan. It’s a traditional Scottish dessert made with raspberries, whipped double cream, oats, and whisky. The juicy, tart raspberries cut through the richness of the cream, and the oats, topped with heather honey and lightly toasted, add a lovely crunch. The whisky gives it a nice kick too. It's simple in both presentation and preparation, but it's a delicious counter to the spice and stodge of the main course. Another dram can be enjoyed with dessert; it might help to forget the amount of butter and cream you've just eaten.
Burns Night was never celebrated at home when I was growing up. I didn’t even try haggis until my mid-twenties. If either of these rings true for you, then I encourage you to give it a go. You'll either thank me or curse me.
Words + Photoby Sean Emerson